Agfa Photo 6A4360 APX Pan 400 135/36 Film

Product Information

Assuming both APX 400 and Kentmere 400 are the same emulsion I chose to buy Kentmere as it was slightly cheaper online. Kentmere 400 street photography The more I shoot and develop HP5 in 120 the more I think this THE film to use in a medium format camera. It is so versatile, you can use it under any light conditions including night photography because you can easily push is to 1600 or 3200, grain is not an issue at this size of negative, it offers great tonality and it is reasonably priced. View from Nymphaio village, we went to see a bear sanctuary located there. Bronica SQ-B, Zenzanon 80mm PS f/2.8, HP5, Rodinal 1+50 View from old commercial port of Thessaloniki, it is now gentrified with cafes, restaurants, and museums. Bronica SQ-B, Zenzanon 80mm PS f/2.8, HP5, Rodinal 1+50 The first t-grain film we’ll discuss is Kodak T-MAX and Lady Gray (which is the same film). This film is very linear, tonally. It has very fine grain. The T-grain emulsion, as I mentioned, high sharpness and very high-edged detail. T-MAX is a great choice if you don’t like grain. The T-MAX base has a pink tint to it. Like Rollei Retro, T-MAX is also extremely curly upon drying but is also currently fairly affordable at .15 per frame. While this review focuses on the RPx 400, there are also a 100 and 25 ISO versions. We’ll give those films their own Film Friday. Too Big to Fail - the Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L - Plus the Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L + Leica 50mm f/1.2 Noctilux-M

Next up is Fomapan, which, is also Arista EDU Ultra, which, is also HOLGA. It’s all the same emulsion. Fomapan 400 has been produced for by Foma, Czech company, for almost a hundred years. It is Europe’s popular budget-friendly brand. I’ve found that prices vary between its various brands, so I’ll usually watch and compare these prices and get the version which happens to be the cheapest at any given time. Los Angeles with Anna - Part I - Pairing the Leica M10 with the Leica 28mm f/1.4 Summilux + APO 50mm f/2 Summicron

I'm not quite ready to proclaim it on par with APX 100 but it's far closer to its slower counterpart than TMY is to TMX. And I'm not certain it will replace Tri-X in my affections but I certainly like it. I have another roll to test, which I'll develop in ID-11 or Perceptol, about as different from Rodinal as I have available. Of the big three players in the U.S. market b&w film, paper and chemistry makers - Kodak, Ilford and Agfa - which one *hasn't* discontinued or altered a favorite product in the last decade?

It seems safe to assume that Harmon (maker of Kentmere and Ilford films) does the coating/finishing of this film, but I wouldn’t go so far as to say that this emulsion is simply Kentmere or HP5 as many claim. Regardless, this film, to me, is surprisingly high quality for one so cheap. It has low contrast with good latitude (define latitude), and I’d say a medium to fine grain. It dries flat and is great for scanning. As often as I can, I want to get into reviewing films. I’m not necessarily talking about the well known films like your Portra, your Tri-X, your Delta 400–but the lesser known and lesser talked about rolls of film. Upon going to the Lomography store here in NYC, a rep there who knows me told me about Agfa APX 400. It’s a rather interesting film–one that retains highlights well so you generally need to overexpose for the shadows. Kentmere offers a more classic look from being less perfect (vs. TMax), having more visible grain and lower contrast. Kodak TMax 400 is very modern and smooth looking from the fine T-grain structure. T-Max 400 is the best 400 speed film, especially in 35mm film format in terms of resolving power and look for my taste. That said TMax is so perfect it can look almost digital especially in 120 film format. I do quite like the classic look of film photography so Kentmere 400 will suit my needs in many instances and especially for low light. More Kentmere sample photos There are different ways to over expose film. A common way if you lab develop your film is to meter the film in camera at say ISO 200 and then ask you lab to develop the film as normal. For Kentmere 400 this would be at ISO 400 giving a +1 stop over exposure (as you metered at ISo 200)(thereby giving the camera +1 stops of extra light on each image).But in conducting this comparison, I have made a couple of realization. First and foremost, my loyalty to Tri-X is deeply misplaced. In figuring out my change in heart, I recall in conversation that Kodak re-engineered Tri-X around the time when digital imaging was proliferating. Digging a little deeper, I read online that the current iteration of Tri-X has less silver - which doesn’t sound encouraging. Admittedly, I’m no engineer, but it’s safe to assume that the grain structure of the current version isn’t the same as the one I used to love. Now, that isn’t what I always did; but I also don’t care about every single one of my images being an HDR either. Most people though my care for it. Image Quality

Once again I'd like to comment as this does reinforce what several of us have said re; films being developer dependant...

After the dissolution of IG Farben, Agfa emerged as its own independent company again before becoming a subsidiary of Bayer in 1952. In 1964, Agfa AG merged with Belgian photographic company Gevaert Photo-Producten N.V. to form Agfa-Gevaert N.V. which would remain under Bayer’s control until 1999. The company continued manufacturing film cameras until the early 1980s and then produced a series of unsuccessful entry-level digital cameras from the mid 1990s until the early 2000s. So what were your results? Does this test change anything for you? Has it sparked your interest in a new film? I’d love to hear about it in the comments?Now I know you’re probably anxious to dive into the actual photos. But first I’d love to share with you a tool I built to help myself to determine which film I want to commit to, long term, for myself. If this can also help you, then I’m happy to share it.

Say you're out shooting; you miss-meter and underexpose your shot a stop. Then you unknowingly use a bad developer/film combination and loose another stop. Gets worse...while your developing your film you mis-measure your Rodinal by what seems like a drop; suddenly you're only using 2.5 mls. Agfa insists that little Rodinal will not work as the developer is exhausted before the process is complete. So the mis-measurement causes another stop or so loss in speed You�re three stops down, your prints are not going to love you...as a mater of fact they are going to be quite disappointing.

This spreadsheet is based on the split 10 decision-making process, though simplified a bit and customized to fit, specifically, to our blind film test.The biggest difference I saw was in shadow separation - Tri-X and HP-5 were clearly better than the others at drawing out shadow details, with AGFA APX 400 right behind them. Based on shadow detail, I’d have to rate TMax and Delta 400 at 200, Tri-X and HP5 at 400, and Agfa 400 at 320 using this developer/meter combination. Landscapes that are mostly stunning. I dislike aerial views. No idea, but I do! Burnt out highlights is the scourge of modern films. I think the emulsion and often base too thin.. Tri-X with it’s curls another film i no longer use. Yes! I’ve done darkroom since a kid. I am 78. I would never carry so many different films. Confusion. Films though are better, in the 60’s 35mm was NOT recommended for landscapes. (Kodak). 120 film is a Big jump in quality. Big means better, 4x bigger. For those of you who used your own methods to evaluate these films, you’re done. Please let me know in the comments what your results were. I’m really curious to hear if they met your expectations or not and what you learned from this experiment. The TTArtisan Light Meter is a small average light meter that slips into the camera’s shoe. Since Bronica hasn’t one, I have attached neodymium magnets on the camera and the light meter, magnets form a sturdy connection and I can remove and reattach the light meter easily. Metering is easy and fast, you just press the only button, it takes the reading and keeps it, so you can afterwards see all the combinations of speed/ aperture that make for a proper exposure. All the photos I took with it came out as well metered. Agfa is a German brand best known for making film, photographic paper and cameras. It was established in 1867 in Berlin. Its name is derived from 'Actien-Gesellschaft für Anilin-Fabrication” (Corporation for Aniline Production) which was abbreviated down to AGFA in 1867. Agfa focused on developing chemicals and films for the photographic industry but began as a colour dye factory, producing photographic chemicals and film products until 1925 when they merged with a number of other German chemical manufacturers (including BASF and Bayer) to form the giant conglomerate IG Farben. They later absorbed Bayer’s Rietzschel camera factory in Munich at this time and began producing cameras.